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⢠Related Questions
Does Canon have an AF assist light on camera?The EOS cameras with pop-up flash, such as the 70D and T2i, use the pop-up flash when focus assist is needed. To use it without the flash firing when the photo is exposed you select "disable flash firing" under the flash control menu while selecting "enable AF assist beam firing" under the AF menu or Custom functions menu, depending on the specific camera model. You may need to press the flash button on the front of the camera to manually open the flash. The flash will fire several low-powered pulses to assist focus but will not fire when the shutter is opened. This would include all EOS APS-C DSLR models.EOS cameras without a pop-up flash require an external flash or a wireless flash controller equipped with a near-infrared AF assist lamp in order to provide an assist light for focussing. This would include all full frame and APS-H models.The "IR Assist Beam" mentioned in menu items refers only to an external flash or wireless flash controller that includes a near-infrared AF assist lamp
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How does the quality of the LED-backlit screen of a MacBook or a 27" Cinema Display degrade over time?
I've had my 2007 MBP17 backlights replaced a couple times. With that model, you could place downward pressure on the closed device. That apparently causes blobby regions of the backlight to appear overtly grayer. I carried my MBP17 in a padded backpack with stuff in it that compressed the unit while carrying. Whoops.Another failure mode I saw was the backlighting dimmed in largely vertical areas; text over at the top-left of the panel and below over time became harder to read. The effect is considerably less obvious than the first problem.
(Normally, the screen center looks brightest and the edges look a little dimmer, but I can see the left side of the screen as brightly as the center by moving my head to the left. When it doesn't seem a little brighter by doing that, you may have a backlight issue.) There may be other failure modes, these are the ones I've seen. For me, the degradation is slow and involved areas of the backlight becoming less bright
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Dimmable LED lights on a dimmer switch, they won't come on at all anymore. Do they still work?
Are they salvageable at all? Have I just ruined two otherwise perfectly good LED lights?No, they are not salvageable. Yes, you have just ruined two otherwise perfectly good LED lights.Dimming, with a non-LED compatible dimmer or with non-dimmable LED lights, is not good for the lights. Dimming is not normally, as much as it might appear (and as I used to think) simply reducing the amount of current going to the lights. It is a bit more complex. LED lights (fluorescent too) can't simply take "any way of reducing the overall power" - they have to handle things in a special way or they will either die a painful death (as you found) or blink a lot - 50% on, 50% off 50% light, but not in a terribly useful way.Odds are if you had removed the lights right away after discovering the problem, they would be just fine today - the electronics are actually fairly resilient. But using them over an extended period time with a mismatched dimmer doomed them
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Generator shutdown on leading power factor
Non-filament LED bulbs have a bridge rectifier and capacitor in their mains supply. That's usually not a problem as the current spikes that kind of supply creates are small for a few watts LED bulb. It doesn't matter then.For that reason (and size), the PFC requirements today's mains supplies have to adhere do not apply to LED bulbs. And thus, many of them do produce those current spikes visible as capacitive reactance.It becomes a problem as soon you have a whole building illuminated with those nasty things. Your generator is in no case happy about the current spikes. Inverter UPS may even fail. That's why your vendor told you to use a line reactor.It has to be generously sized to smooth the spikes. The power factor will certainly stay capacitive but that's something a synchronous generator can deliver. Inverter UPS will still give you a headache.As an alternative, you may want to switch to filament LED bulbs (no capacitor) or high quality LED bulbs with a PFC supply
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30x Incandescent light bulb in parallel ? dimming
You could easily connect them all in parallel. or in any grid ie (3*10 or 6*5) and just control the input to the grid independently. As others have said incandescent bulbs is mostly a resistive load. If you go with ,say 5 in series and each of those 5 is in parallel then you would require 7.5V @ 1.8A. Choosing a configuration is simply a matter of what you have available.Except for requiring more power than LEDs the incandescent bulbs can be pwm much easier. You might even be able to get away with a much lower switching frequency because the bulbs will tend to filter higher frequencies. Series is easier to switch m but if one bulb do fails , the whole light fails. Going parallel you need to switch a higher current but its trivial to find a blown bulb. Using a grid like arrangement mixes these two features partially so you get lower switching current than when all is in parallel and its easier to find faults than when everything is in series
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What makes LED bulbs low wattage with high efficiency?
LED (Light Emitting Diode) emits the energy more in the visible light spectrum as compared to conventional lighting technologies (flourescent, incandescent ...). This reduces the loss of energy consumed to emit IR, UV spectrum of light, making them more efficient.Another reason is that LED technology (semiconductor) does not depend on heating a metal etc. to emit light. The incandescent technology for eg. uses a lot of energy for heating the tungsten filament and dissipating this heat. This leads to more efficient conversion of electrical energy to light.You may also ask, that then why does LED lighting technology have large heat sinks for heat dissipation? This is because the semiconductor technology is also not 100% efficient and it some energy loss happens in the chip as heat. This heat needs to be dissipated quickly using large aluminium heat sinks to prevent damage to the semiconductor chip (diode).Hope this answer is technical enough and helps. Can give more data and figures, but it may get too descriptive!What makes LED bulbs low wattage with high efficiency?.
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What problems occur when direction of current is supposed to be in the direction of negative charge?
This question is completely relative to what circuit you are working with. However you can generally design around a circuit to have current go in either direction. And if you were asking about reversing current on a circuit that is designed for current to flow in the opposite direction then the result could be anything from catastrophic witch would allow the magic smoke to escape :) or, could have no real negative effect for instance in the case of a flashlight circuit with a traditional (not LED ) bulb. With a traditional flashlight circuit you could put the batteries in backwards, and as long as they made contact properly with the connection points the the current would flow backwards through the circuit and the flashlight would work without issue. (With an LED bulb flashlight circuit it would not work because the LED is intended to work with current flowing in only one direction.)What problems occur when direction of current is supposed to be in the direction of negative charge?.
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Why doesn't the flow electrons occur in a broken circuit?
The flow of current moves electrical charge. At endpoints of a 'broken circuit',
charge would arrive and... sit.But, like charges repel; very rapidly, the accumulation of electrons creates
an electric field around that endpoint that pushes away any newcoming electrons.As a rule of thumb, this process occurs with such a small amount of charge,
and 'electric current' as we employ it is such a large flow, that
we can consider the cessation of current to be immediate.As to why the air gap does not participate in moving charges, that relates to
the necessity (in order to create a spark) to make the air molecules into
charged ions (so that the motion of those molecules allows current to flow).
That's a chemical change in the air molecules, and CAN happen, but only with
very high voltages and carefully shaped electrodes (like 40,000 volts applied
to a platinum-tipped spark plug), and it wastes a lot of energy (which is
why the spark starts that little fire in the engine cylinder).
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Why does ComEd sponsor discounts on LED bulbs? Isn't it bad for their business?
Of course it's not economical to subsidize a practice that reduces your income. But that's not the point.Public utilities are often coaxed by their state regulators into subsidizing "green" technologies, both those that reduce demand (energy-efficient products) and renewable generation sources (e.g., wind and solar, in the form of "renewable energy credits" (RECs)). The purpose of utility regulation is to balance the private, commercial interests of the utility against the broader public interest. And, of course, it's not so much the utility as some ratepayers subsidizing other ratepayers.This is fine when the goal is to jump-start the adoption of important new technologies that need scale in order to become economicalfor everyone. In the case of LED bulbs, it isn't just an issue of scale, it's also an issue of mindsetgetting people into the habit of paying more up front but much less over the life of the product.By the way, people tend to forget that subsidies aren't sustainable once the new technologies become widely adopted. Ultimately, technologies will be chosen based on their un-subsidized, life-cycle costs.
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Will changing the stator help sustain electrical accessories?
Check how much amps the alternator can deliver, and make an estimation of the amps you'll consume. There must still be a margin for safety.What audio system and LED bulbs do you have? Normal LED lights consume less than halogen light(approx. 30W per bulb), and a standard radio does rarely consume more than 50W. Little enough for an alternator to power. If you find yourself charging the battery a lot, you could also have a faulty voltage regulator or battery.Check for the voltage with a DMM when you're running all your accessories. Rev up the engine to cruise rpm to get a realistic situation. The voltage must not drop below 13V on a full battery. It's not allowed to exceed 14.4V either. If your voltages are right while all the accessories are running, the alternator is likely not at fault.
If you're determined to increase alternator output for any reason, fitting a stronger/bigger one is often easier than tweaking the current one. And also more reliable