Persistence!: Kenesha Charles Is the Grenadian Designer Who Just Wont Quit

Kenesha Charles, CEO of LizGordon, is a 2017 graduate from the University of Trinidad and Tobagos (UTT) Caribbean Academy of Fashion and Design (CAFD). We spoke about the challenges facing regional designers, the LizGordon man and woman, and her latest collection Scarlet and Black.You are from Grenada.

Why come to Trinidad and Tobago to further your education in design? Why not the USA or other places within Latin America where there are more mechanisms in place to support new designers?Kenesha: My first choice was Central Saint Martins in London.

However due to financial constraints, I was forced to explore other options. Hence, my attending the CAFD at UTT.When did the light bulb go off that you should pursue fashion and design?

Did growing up in Grenada help or slow the process of realizing that this was what you wanted to explore?Kenesha: There was a transfer student from London at my primary school who spoke about being a model and the designers she wished to model for. Her desire sparked a part of me I never knew existed and from there I found myself sketching and thinking of ideas for clothing.

These evolved over time into my heterogeneous brand LizGordon.Being Grenadian meant being part of a very slow and untouched culture, which made my desire for designing seem almost unrealistic since there was no one on the island achieving in this field. No matter how much the idea seemed hopeless, I remained persistent.

Lets talk about your senior thesis collection, Scarlet and Black. What influenced its creation and is this the first time you are designing so many pieces for one show?Kenesha: Intrigued by history, I found myself watching lots of films that embodied the lifestyle of people who lived centuries before us.

The muse [of] my collection comes from a film created in the 1990s by the BBC but patterned from a book, Le Rouge et le Noir, written in the 1800s. The film showcased the extent of classism within the Elizabethan period and the [level] of hypocrisy that the protagonist adopted as a means of fulfilling his ambition to dwell among the wealthy. The collection is the first of its kind created by me but by no [means] the last.

When referencing historical works of film or literature, designs can often lean towards looking like a costume. What updates and modifications did you make to keep your pieces contemporary?Kenesha: I follow the school of minimalism and reductionism.

Whatever I create [aims to] embody that.You could, in theory, create something minimalist that still looks like a costume or the offspring of a theater production. What about your process helps you constantly review your work to ensure it is contemporary?

Kenesha: True, but it all comes down to reworking the great idea. When Im inspired I never stop designing for that particular inspiration. I exploit every route allowed by my mind and concept.

This allows the eyes to become a bit more trained and in sync with the brain, creating a more edited version of [what] was last designed. My process also takes into consideration my customer and what I believe they desire to wear.Speaking of your customer, who are the Liz Gordon women and men?

Kenesha: They are the 2030 year old globetrotters or the younger travelling population. They are the class whose desire for stylish outerwear and separates falls within the bracket of luxury and performance wear. What pieces in your collection would work especially well for that type of individual?

Kenesha: All the pieces would work as they all [target] different aspects of an individuals daily runabouts. Take the grey micro fleece wool coat with the cold shoulder and lower sleeve cutouts paired with the chunky wool rib-knit turtleneck dress. Its perfect for a day at the office during the fall season.

However, its also a great look for a night out. Most of all, it makes for a stylish travelling coat.As we are several days out of your show, how has the reception been?

You had more separates than the average Caribbean lineup. Do our climate and purchasing habits make the idea of separates a tougher sell?Kenesha: Im astonished by the feedback from individuals expressing their liking for the collection and taking an interest in the price as well.

Separates can be worn anywhere, including the Caribbean [during] the rainy season. The collection I created is for the travelling individual and is suited for the fall season. Selling this collection could be a task as I am still [exploring] this niche.

However, there are a few under pieces in the collection that are wearable in the Caribbean. For those I see no sales challenges.What have been your observations on style in the region?

Do you think it is progressing to new and innovative looks or has it been slow to evolve past the usual staples?Kenesha: I think as regional individuals, we showcase a great deal of style although it is not consistent. I say this because persons tend to shy away from their stylishness out of fear of being overdressed or inappropriate.

However, the style conscious individuals are reaching for more than the everyday must haves. I see a lot of mixing and matching of statement pieces, especially in accessories. Do you think there is enough support in place for young Caribbean designers to start small but profitable businesses?

Kenesha: I can only speak for Grenada, and honestly, there arent many platforms geared towards the fashion industry. There are great difficulties in finding support. And though we may try to defy the odds, being profitable [is often] the last thing on our minds as we are more concerned with the survival of our businesses.

How can designers survive if they cannot earn a profit? Has breaking even become the more realistic goal?Kenesha: Survival depends on the demand for the product.

If the product isnt selling then something is wrong. Combating the problem through two or more measures becomes necessary: lowering prices making the item more attainable, targeting another market segment, or adding items such as basics to facilitate sustenance. Profit is the ultimate goal.

However breaking even is not something one expects to gain in the initial stages of a new business.How do you plan to use your collection as a springboard to becoming profitable?Kenesha: The collection is going to be used as the first step in marketing my business idea providing transitional pieces for the traveling youth.

Once a wide enough audience is met, its my hope that they become a part of the Liz-Trotters. | Image via UTTSpeaking of Liz-Trotters, where did the name LizGordon come from?Kenesha: The name LizGordon is a semi-tribute to my father as he has been my biggest supporter throughout my whole life.

Thats the Gordon part. Liz comes from my middle name, Elizabeth, which is also my mothers middle name.What have been some of the more frustrating experiences you have encountered as a designer in the Caribbean?

Take sales for example. Have you come upon industry experts who seem to be out of touch with what consumers actually want to purchase?Kenesha: The most frustration came from pitching my ideas to the so-called industry experts and having them disregard my ideas because theyre not the norm of the Caribbean.

Meaning theyre not colourful enough or theyre not something [the experts] think that the Caribbean person is capable of desiring. It has been a hell of a task trying to get noticed in the midst of all these cliques and favourites. I guess my low-key character doesnt allow me to be memorable.

Im trying to work on that though.Why do you think these people are so involved with the inner workings of the fashion industry if they often get it so wrong? How do you compete with their narratives and demonstrate that their perspectives need to evolve?

Kenesha: I wouldnt say they get it wrong. Rather, they can only see as far as their imagination allows them to see. When it comes to their involvements in the industry I cant say too much about it since Im not very familiar with their contributions.

In every situation one must be able to justify what [one] does. That kind of battle can sometimes be won by a simple conversation. However, there are times when they know its a good idea but because of favouritism, opportunities are not given to the person with a more fantastic idea.

To be completely honest, Im not very interested in fighting this battle with them.What are the most important lessons you have learned while studying in Trinidad & Tobago that you are looking forward to sharing with designers and other creatives back in Grenada?Kenesha: Persistence!

Its the one thing that I had to learn to keep myself motivated and consistent in my work. One of the lessons Ive been most faithful to is having ambition and fulfilling it at a pace convenient to you. Sometimes we rush things only to realise that we havent really gotten anywhere with the hastiness.

Seven Things to Know About KeneshaHer best productivity hack: spreading tasks evenly across the day from most time consuming to the least taxingWho she thinks influenced contemporary fashion the most: Anna KarlinWhat she imagines clothing will look like in 2067: totally digitised and perhaps an emulation of our imaginationOn whether you can buy good taste: yes, by buying a design that was created in good tasteThe biggest design moment of this century: smart devices, especially smart textilesHer tip for scoring deals from retailers and designers: dont be afraid to ask for what you desire, the most that can happen is them shouting you down for askingThe worst advice she received on dealing with lifes complications: work hard and everything will work out for youIf you enjoyed this be sure to share and click the below so other people will see this. Interview was condensed and edited for clarity RELATED QUESTION Furniture: What's the best chair for designers? There is nothing standardised about a particular chair being best for designers.

It depends on the person using it, the build and size of frame, and most importantly the posture. Some people work hunched up always in front of the screen. Others stay upright and are less susceptible to back aches and pains.

The chair must complement the sitting style with adjustable backs resting firmly against the spine. This is important strong back support. Many prefer a flexible back where they can lean back to a certain degree but that is not advisable if you are putting in long hours.

Finally forget about designer chairs that adds glamour to the settings only, its the comfort level that is crucial. For more infoclick here