Toys:

Do you mean firing live ammunition in a toy (airsoft) gun or using a real bullet in place of an airsoft bullet?I have done both, out of boredom or curiosity. Firing a real bullet in place of an airsoft BB is something anyone can do. Firing a live round out of an airsoft gun without having it explode however, is a challenge best left to someone with qualifications and practical application experience. (Basically an engineer with significant experience in practical application)To fire a bullet out of an airsoft gun, all you need is a gas 'sniper' and a .22 cal bullet. In my case it was a KJW M700p shooting lubricated LPG. My gun has joule creep problems, making it closer to a pellet gun that shoots plastic BBs than a common spring or electric airsoft gun. It shoots standard . 20 gram BBs at 520 fps, . 28 gram BBs at 680 fps, and . 86 gram steel ball bearings at 390 fps. I originally bought it not for airsoft play but for target shooting and hopefully shooting resized buckshot to kill rats and other backyard pests. The buckshot didn't work out so I shot 6mm steel ball bearings instead.The bullet was a Armscor .224 62 grain FMJBT. It weighs more than 20 times of the .20 gram airsoft BB. I used no wadding or sabot, and the bullet having no rifling to stabilize it won't be accurate or powerful. I shot it in the backyard at a 2x2 foot 1/2 MDF board. The board was 37 feet away, the depth of my backyard. The bullet hit the board and bounced off, it impacted sideways as expected and chronograph readings suggest an average velocity of 115 feet per second, or about 80 miles an hour. -The other experience was to prove to my friends (it was a bet) that I'm not just another crazy guy with crazy ideas. They said there is no way I could make an airsoft gun into a real gun without replacing or reinforcing critical components such as the barrel and bolt face. The rules of the challenge was:I start with a plastic airsoft gun with the majority of its parts made of plastic, with exception to metal parts included by manufacturer such as springs, trigger, sear, screws and various metal pins. The gun costs less than $35The only metal part I can add is a metal firing pin. (plastic pins only work once)The gun must fire cartridge ammunition- that is, an assembly of bullet, powder, primer and case. No muzzleloading. Also it must fire a cartridge readily obtained from a local gunshop. I added that last rule because it is too easy for me to invent a cartridge safe to shoot from a plastic pipe.This is not an entry level challenge, it is not something the average person should attempt. It is also not the type of thing where a book/theory says its okay it is okay to attempt without hands on experience to verify whether the book/theory is accurate. Given how schools these days teach, most graduates in STEM majors are ill-prepared for the challenge. So, DO NOT attempt at home!A month later I presented my friends a single shot, minimally modified clear plastic airsoft pistol, able to chamber and fire either .22 subsonic or .17 HMR. The 22 wasn't that amazing. The .17 HMR... they said they would only believe me if I shot it with them watching from behind a tree!But that airsoft pistol shot . 17 HMR cartridges, and it did not blow up, and I did not suffer injuries to my hands or body. It let off a satisfying crack when the bullet went supersonic and an impressive fireball out the muzzle.How I did it wasn't that complicated... at least not to me. (the following is overly simplified to keep it a reasonable length)First, find the right airsoft gun. My first airsoft pistol was the right airsoft pistol. Solid, thick plastic parts, it wasn't two thin sheets of injection molded plastic glued or screwed together like most inexpensive airsoft guns. All I had to do was go out and buy another Cybergun Mauser HSc airsoft pistol.Second, I took it apart, discarded the BB holding O-ring, discarded the slide return spring, and cut off the head of the air piston that normally feeds BB from magazine into barrel. I dunked the air piston ram in paint thinner to kill its air sealing abilities and so it'll slide easier in the air cylinder. Filled the backside of the air cylinder with JB Weld epoxy. The barrel in accordance to federal law, was crudely rifled with an old HSS drill bit mounted on a random rod, push/pulled in spiral pattern repeatedly thru the barrel to form one line of rifling. Two more lines were added offset 120 degrees apart. The law only says it must have rifling, whether it is functional appears to be irrelevant.With the gun technically legal, I added the offset firing pin to the piston ram head, drilled a small hole thru the head of the air cylinder (reinforced with JB Weld), and made a chamber in the barrel out of Bondo reinforced with cardboard paper fiber. I could of made it out of fiberglass & epoxy but didn't feel like buying anything. The chamber cast was made with a . 22 WMR cartridge. The chamber does not support the . 17 HMR bottleneck portion of the case and this was done intentionally.And finally so the gun could be loaded and unloaded without disassembly, I used my Dremel tool to turn the fake ejection port on the slide into a real ejection port (a hole). Anyone that has removed a split case knows it involves a rod and a mallet, so there's no point spending effort or money fashioning an extraction system. Also as I discarded the slide return spring, there was no need to make some kind of slide lock mechanism, The slide will sit open or closed based on manual positioning.How it worked without exploding is really quite simple. First, an unsupported bottleneck case fires at whatever pressure the bottleneck case fails at. George Frost's book "Ammunition Making" documents unsupported .22 rimfire cases can handle about 4,000 psi before failing, even though .17 HMR makes far more pressure than that it will only make around 4k psi because that's when the case neck bursts and pressure is relieved. The bullet, along with bits of case and unburnt powder, is blasted downrange by the escaping gas. The heavy air piston spring (about 12#) easily holds the slide, improvised reinforced breech, and the case in place upon striking of the rim, preventing the assembly from moving during firing (the split case holds itself in place afterwards and needs to be forcefully removed by rod & mallet). The .172 caliber bullet is significantly smaller than the . 234 of the bore, it does not create an obstruction for pressures to build up further, but it does obstruct enough of the bore that it accelerates past the sound barrier (1100 fps). The unburnt powder is ignited by still burning powder, resulting in an impressive fireball at the muzzle.I fired a total of 5 rounds several minutes apart demonstrating it works. As the gun started to fall apart by the 5th round and it's proven what I wanted it to prove, the last round was remote fired demonstrating why average people should never attempt this. With it duct taped to a cinder block, placed behind the backstop of our shooting spot, a string tied to the trigger and chambered a .22WMR cartridge, the gun blew itself to pieces. We later found the front part of the barrel and chamber, still holding the bullet still seated in what remains of the front part of the case!I did no real math or engineering in this project, as I learned and understand things the same way people in the old days before math, science and computers were invented. Back in John Browning's era, they had no numbers. How did they know a barrel wouldn't burst? It was made of steel and it "looked thick enough". All I really needed to know is ammunition in a fire poses no grave threat to firefighters (youtube SAAMI firefighting video), and see Iraqveteran8888's video shooting 50 bmg out of an old 12 gauge shotgun. I just put numbers in for the more numerically inclined. Back when John Browning's time there were no numbers (they didn't even understand metallurgy). So how did he know if a barrel would burst? He touched it, looked at what it's made of and hmm, it looks thick enough. lol.Toys: What would happen if you shot a real bullet from a fake plastic gun that shoots plastic bullets?

1. Do you believe that all natural organic toys are best for children?

You are not asking for opinions -- you are asking for people to agree with you. "Do not you feel . . ." is not a question, it's an invitation to agree. Most kids have far too many toys. There are well-crafted "plastic" toys out there, if you are willing to hunt for them and pay the prices they command.

2. How can I get my 6mo. old beagle to stop chewing my toddlers toys?

i used to work at a dog training facility and there are a few ways to go about this problem. 1. place your childs toys around a room along with your dogs toys and bones. put the dog on a leash and use a martingale collar or even a choker collar. walk the dog around the room and whenever he goes over to your childs toys say no and give a light tug, "correction", and lead him away from the kids toy to his own toy. when he goes over to his own toys, give him a lot of praise. 2. a second way to go about this is to get a taste deterrant called bitter apple. whenever you see him chewing on your kids toys say no and give him a quick spray in his mouth/nose. hope this helps.

3. I want to make something special for my hamster?

take your hamster to petco or petsmart in a carry cage buy it treat and toy.he get treats and toys and a adventure